Located nearly two miles high in the verdant Andes, the Colombian capital may be shrouded by balmy mountain mists, but it's shaking off a long period of isolation to reveal a sophisticated tableau of art, architecture and action. Cartagena — the UNESCO-lauded seafront town an hour's flight north of Bogotá — used to be the only place visited by many of Colombia's 2 million annual tourists. But Bogotá's beefed-up security means that visitors are no longer bypassing the capital in a hurry to get to the beach. Travel warnings still urge caution, but for visitors taking proper safeguards, a trip to Bogotá is finally on the cards.
 
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