Downtown Bogotá may proclaim itself a modern city with skyscrapers and a financial centre, but the world of international commerce seems far away as we pass old men selling cigarettes from trays and cramped shops with their stock spilling out on to the pavement. In minutes we move from the morning havoc of the back streets into Teusaquillo, where the roads are slightly wider and the craters fewer. The well-to-do used to live here, but they moved on long ago, leaving it to human rights lawyers, civic groups and non-government organisations. We stop at a house with a low brick wall. Read the full extract here.